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What Makes Curly Hair Curly?

For many years, it was believed that the shape of a person’s hair was determined by the individual hair shafts, and that curly hair was curly because the cross-section of the hair shaft was flatter and had more intertwined layers than straight hair, which was round. However, more recently, scientists at L’Oreal Paris have found that curly hair and straight hair are determined by the shape of the hair follicle, and that the shape of the hair shaft simply follows suit.

It is known that curly hair has a different biological structure than straight hair. It is extremely rare to find someone with hair that is both curly and oily. Biologically, this makes sense, because the oils secreted into the hair shaft by the sebaceous glands can more easily travel down the shaft of straight hair. Anyone with curly hair knows that this hair type can be dry, hard to manage, and often frizzy. The good news is that people with curly hair tend to have fewer split ends than people with straight hair.

The amount of curl in curly hair is also dependent on the shape of the hair follicle and shaft. The hair follicle below the scalp has a hooked end in people with curly hair. The more hook the follicle has, the curlier the hair is. Those with straight hair have hair follicles with no hooks.

While scientists are studying the impact of drugs that can change the shape of the hair follicle, those who simply wish to experiment with a different hair type have many options besides resorting to medication. The shape of hair can be changed chemically, which offers a permanent change until new hair grows out. The shape of hair can also be changed thermally with curling or flat irons, which provides a temporary change lasting until the hair is washed.

The biggest challenges most people with curly hair face are dryness and unmanageability. Because many people with curly hair abuse their hair with chemical and thermal products, the dryness tends to become worse. Curly hair requires different care than straight hair in order for it to maintain its natural health. Curly hair does not require washing everyday and will benefit from an occasional break from chemicals and heat. Curly hair should be deep conditioned every time it is washed, and people with dry, curly hair should avoid styling products that contain alcohol. Proper attention to hair care will improve the over all health and manageability of curly hair.

Written by J. Beam