Serge is a type of twill fabric which has been classically used in uniforms and suiting for centuries. Like other twills, serge has a distinctive weave which creates a pattern of diagonal ridges in the fabric, and it is known for being extremely sturdy and resilient. It also drapes and hangs well, flattering a variety of body types in an assortment of weights. Many department stores stock serge garments, and serge can also be purchased from fabric suppliers for custom work.

The origins of serge appear to be quite ancient. The word is derived from the Greek serikos, which means “silken,” suggesting that serge was probably brought to Europe from China. By the 8th century CE, people were certainly using serge, but the fabric was available primarily to the upper classes. Europeans also developed wool serge, with serge production being centered in France by the 1500s, typically using high-quality English wool.

Wool serge is excellent for uniforms and suits, and it is possible to produce wool serge in both light and heavy weights, for a variety of climates. Because serge is a very flexible, resilient fabric, it tends to cope very well with crumpling and pressing, making it convenient for extended wear. When a suit is cut well, serge also drapes very nicely, complementing the figure of the wearer quite effectively.

Silk serge is primarily used as a lining, because it is more fragile than wool serge. The soft texture of silk serge makes it very pleasant when worn against the skin, and the natural flexibility of the fabric makes it ideal for the often rumpled and highly stressed linings of things like coats and jackets. The raised diagonal pattern in the fabric tends to be very subtle, so the serge will not chafe.

Many people associate serge with quality garments, because serge has classically been costly and of very high quality. The sturdiness of serge makes it appealing for things like military uniforms, while the range of weights and versatility of the fabric make it suitable for formal suits, great coats, and other fancy dress.

When purchasing a garment made from serge, it pays to take the time to try the garment on and inspect it carefully. Good serge will last a lifetime, so the garment should be carefully fitted and inspected for flaws. It is also a good idea to go with a more classic cut, ensuring that the garment can be worn years in the future without looking dated.