What Is Ruching?
Ruching is a sewing technique in which fabric or ribbon is gathered in a repeating pattern to form ruffles, scallops, or petals. It has been used for many years to decorate women's clothing, accessories, and quilts. Its uniformity has led some historians to believe that ancient seamstresses used an implement to evenly space the ruching or gathering.
Ruching is a labor-intensive, time-consuming technique that, like many other art forms, is experiencing a resurgence in current fashion trends. It is a French term which means to gather, ruffle, or pleat. Ruching can be used to create flower decorations or to gather fabric at certain points in the design of a dress or other clothing. It is not uncommon to see ruching in dress sleeves, waistbands, and collars.
The steps to create a decorative ruched flower involve folding the sides of the strip to the back until they meet. Then lines are marked at a 90° angle on the front side. The lines are stitched with a matching thread; stitchers should be sure to loop the thread back to the front when they reach an edge.
After sewing a few inches, the stitcher should then gather the fabric or ribbon into petals. Using another needle and thread, the petals are then curled into a circular pattern. At the end of the petals, the tail is tucked under and tacked. Using these techniques, a seamstress can create attractive flowers for appliqué purposes.
Modern day tailors often use a plastic guide to mark the zig-zag pattern that will later be stitched. Another gadget, a fabric sack filled with chalk, can be used to make the markings. The tailor then sews small running stitches by hand or machine. The thread must be sturdy to allow the fabric or ribbon to be gathered. Circular ruching guides are also available for making flowers.
Metallics, ribbons, and even lace can be ruched. Ruching decorated women's clothing, including hats and petticoats, in the late 19th century. It is still used in evening wear, such as in ball gowns and prom dresses, as well as everyday clothing. Modern ruching can even decorate a necktie. Ruching is also used in home design products, such as at the bottom edge of an Austrian blind.
Written by Cathy Rogers
