What is Lyocell?

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Lyocell is a fabric most know better by its brand name Tencel®. It has a soft finish, packs light and is made from cellulose (vegetable matter), or wood pulp, typically a mix of hardwood trees like oak and birch. This makes it a natural fabric, and it is noted for its durability and strength, in addition to its eco-friendly manufacturing techniques.

The first fabrics made with wood pulp were made as far back as the mid 19th century. They were not universally accepted or very profitable. At the end of the 19th century, a method for creating rayon out of wood cellulose became popular, and rayon became one of the first manmade fibers, as a silk substitute, and an inspiration to later produce lyocell. Success of rayon particularly in the latter 20th century fueled interest in making other products from wood pulp.

Lyocell is made by chipping wood, breaking down the wood fibers with the non-toxic chemical amine oxide, and then placing the material in a spinneret. The spinneret produces long fibers, which are then dried and woven into cloth. The company Lenzing Fibers Inc. is the manufacturer of Tencel® — the only company in the US that currently makes Tencel®.

Other companies throughout the world do make lyocell, and though you might commonly associate the material with fabrics for clothing, there are several other uses for lyocell. Since the fabric is durable, it’s been used for items like conveyor belts and for special bandages in the medical field. These uses of lyocell don’t come cheaply. The manufacturing process for lyocell is expensive and is reflected in the price of all forms of the end material.

In clothing, you’ll find lyocell in number of styles and finishes. Some lyocell clothing looks like denim material, while others approximate the look of suede, usually called moleskin or peach skin. Lyocell can also be made to look like wool, cotton, rayon or poly/silk blends. Garments made of lyocell are fairly expensive, not only because of manufacturing, but because only one company distributes the fabric in the US. You can expect to pay over 100 US dollars (USD) for an outfit made in lyocell.

Those who enjoy lyocell say the extra expense is worth it. The fabric is extremely durable, and is perfect for vacationing. It tends not to wrinkle and many forms of it are easy care, and can be machine-washed. Most do require drip-drying, but as improvements in lyocell continue, no doubt manufacturers will attempt to address this issue.

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Written by Tricia Ellis-Christensen

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