If you think of sushi as just raw fish, you’d be very surprised by the artistry that goes into making futomaki (translated as fat roll in Japanese). Futomaki are long, thick rolls, covered in the traditional seaweed, and rice, with a number of different fillings. These ingredients can vary significantly, and some forms do not even contain fish. The Japanese are not kidding when they name these rolls “fat.” They’re usually at least 1.5 inches (3.81 cm) in diameter, if not larger.

The goal of this piece of sushi is to form an aesthetically pleasing and delicious dish. When sliced into pieces futomaki should have a beautiful array of colors, and the tastes of the different ingredients should be harmonious. Typical futomaki may feature a tiny bit of crab or fish paste, often cooked and not raw, small Japanese omelet pieces, called tamagoyaki, pieces of pickled daikon, diced carrots, tofu and dark shitake mushrooms.

This “fat roll” can be complex with a ton of ingredients in the center, or only feature three or four filling ingredients at most. The goal is to choose contrasting colors and complementary tastes. Futomaki is frequently eaten in sliced form, but there are a few Japanese celebrations where the roll is eaten whole.

When the Japanese celebrate Setsuban, the day that precedes the beginning of a new season, festivals are common. It is common to eat whole futomaki instead of sliced rolls as part of the celebration, especially in the Kansai or Kinki region of Japan, which is in the central south of the country. Of course you can eat whole futomaki at any time of the year, but not slicing it tends to mean you miss out on the gorgeous contrast of color.

If you’re unfamiliar with sushi, or happen to be vegetarian, it’s a great idea to order futomaki at Japanese restaurants and sushi bars. You should ascertain whether the roll truly is vegetarian, as some variants are not. Often, a sushi chef on hand will make a vegetarian version should a patron request it. It’s also a nice introduction to sushi for younger children, particularly if you’re concerned about the safety of consuming raw fish. In almost all cases, fish in this type of sushi is cooked.