Hell is traditionally considered to be a hot place, so it isn't surprising that some spicy foods are called "deviled." Deviled ham is certainly one of the best known of such infernally named foods. The term "deviled" shows up in America in the late 1700s, and it is one of the few words whose meaning has changed little in the intervening years.

Deviled ham came about when the Underwood Company started tinkering with ham and spice recipes in the late 1860s. By 1870, they were granted a patent on their little red devil logo and started turning out the deviled ham in small cans. Home cooks liked the stuff, and soon were making their own versions of it.

Like many of these kinds of recipes, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of ways to make deviled ham. The cook's preferences are the sole determining factors on exactly what goes into their individual deviled ham recipes. Deviled ham is good as a dip, a sandwich spread, or for filling tiny pastry shells for unique hors d'oeuvre.

One good recipe for deviled ham begins with diced baked or canned ham. Good baked ham makes a better deviled ham. The recipe then calls for scallions or green onions, sour cream, hot mustard, tarragon, cayenne pepper, black pepper and hot sauce. Some cooks add celery for extra crunch. Once the ham, scallions and sour cream have been mixed together, the rest is all tasting.

Garlic or other herbs such as oregano or thyme might be substituted for the tarragon, depending on the flavor the cook is aiming for. Horseradish and dry sherry or white wine are also popular add-ins. Some cooks might even process the ham through a meat grinder for a smoother result, perhaps more suitable for sandwiches or crackers. The one thing all the recipes agree on is that the deviled ham should be set aside for a few hours in the refrigerator, to allow the flavors to blend.

Cooks looking for something different to take to a sandwich supper or party might want to take a second look at deviled ham.