What is Cutwork?

definition

Cutwork is a type of embroidery in which pieces of the foundation fabric are cut away, creating a network of holes and eyelets which are accented by the embroidery pattern. At a glance, cutwork might look like lace, but it is actually embroidery, because it is worked on a foundation fabric, not from scratch. Numerous fine examples of cutwork can be seen in museums, and the style continues to be popular today, with many new garments featuring cutwork accents done in various styles. This cutwork is often accomplished by machine, rather than by hand, since handmade cutwork is painstaking to make.

The tradition of cutwork appears to have emerged with a vengeance in 14th century Italy, although basic cutwork may have been done in eras prior to this. The trend spread, with numerous nations developing their own schools and styles of cutwork embroidery. Many techniques have specific names, such as Richelieu, Broderie Anglaise, Spanish cutwork, and Hedebo. These techniques are characterized with certain stylistic trends which make them easy to identify.

The holes in cutwork are reinforced with buttonhole stitching to ensure that they do not ravel. Large holes may be bridged with bars, and some styles of cutwork such as Italian cutwork are characterized by an abundance of such bars. Cutwork may also mingle lacework techniques; Venetian cutwork, for example, is made much fancier with the addition of elegant stitches commonly used in the production of needlelace.

This school of embroidery may be done with multicolored threads, including gold and silver thread, or it may be accomplished in plain white thread for a more austere look. It was often used to ornament the edges of formal shirts and gowns, and cutwork embroidery can also be seen on sheets, pillowcases, placemats, tablecloths, and other household goods. The openwork design can be a bit itchy and stiff, or softer and more smooth with the use of soft, yet sturdy threads in the embroidery.

People who want to learn cutwork may want to try seeking out a local sewing group which works on embroidery projects. It is possible to learn the technique from books, but mentors or classes are extremely helpful for learning the tricks of the trade. To learn cutwork in your area, try asking around at the local sewing or craft store, especially if examples of cutwork are on display or if the store stocks classic embroidery supplies including thread, hoops, and needles.

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