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What is an Ortolan?

Mary McMahon
Mary McMahon
Mary McMahon
Mary McMahon

An Ortolan is a European songbird; more formally, the bird is known as an Ortolan Bunting. Like many songbirds, the Ortolan is relatively small and not very exciting to look at, but it produces a small range of songs which can be quite pleasing to the ear. The fame of the Ortoloan lies not in its singing ability, but rather in its role as a European delicacy. Due to concern about the conservation status of the Ortolan, hunting the birds is now illegal in many nations, adding even more allure to the bird's mystique.

Like other members of the bunting family, the Ortolan is a seed eater, with a small, stubby bill well adapted for cracking and manipulating seeds. The birds are brownish to green, with reddish bellies, green heads, and brown wings. The name of the bird is French, derived from the Latin hortus, for garden, probably in a reference to the bird's predilection for gardens. Scientifically, the Ortolan is known as Emberiza hortulana.

Woman with hand on her hip
Woman with hand on her hip

Like many songbirds, the Ortolan is migratory, preferring the more hospitable climate of Africa during the cold winter months. The birds tend to leave in the mid-fall, returning in March or April to breed. Ortolans nest low to the ground, and the birds usually pair up to incubate the eggs and raise the young. Keeping their nests low to the ground has made the birds more vulnerable to habitat depredation through farming and hunting, as the nests may be destroyed by accident or on purpose while the land is worked.

Allegedly, the birds have a very distinctive, delicate flavor, especially when they are force-fed for several weeks before they are killed. By tradition, the Ortolan is drowned in brandy for the dinner table and served whole. Diners wear napkins over their heads to enhance the aromas of the dish. Since the consumption of the bird is now banned in Europe, these napkins may also protect diners from legal repercussions.

The tradition of serving whole songbirds as delicacies is quite ancient. The Romans, for example, often served an assortment of birds as part of lavish feasts and banquets, and many legacies of these banquets can be seen in modern European cuisine. Presumably, the songbird is an appealing gourmet item because it is so small and therefore rather more decadent than larger birds which can feed multiple people. Unfortunately for the Ortolan, its fame as a dish has led to a dramatic overall decline in population.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is an Ortolan?

An Ortolan is a small bird found primarily in Europe and parts of Asia and Africa. It's scientifically known as Emberiza hortulana and is renowned for its delicate flesh, which has been considered a French culinary delicacy. The bird is also known for its melodious song and is a member of the bunting family.

Why is the Ortolan famous in French cuisine?

The Ortolan is famous in French cuisine for its rich, gamey flavor and the controversial method of preparation and consumption. Traditionally, the bird was captured, fattened, drowned in Armagnac, roasted, and eaten whole, often with a napkin over the diner's head to savor the aroma and, as legend has it, to hide the act from God.

Is it legal to eat Ortolan in France?

No, it is not legal to eat Ortolan in France. The bird has been protected since 1999 due to declining populations and is listed as a species of "Least Concern" by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Despite this, illegal hunting and consumption continue, contributing to ongoing conservation challenges.

What does Ortolan taste like?

Ortolan is said to have a unique and intense flavor, described as a combination of hazelnuts, foie gras, and various other complex flavors. The taste is also enhanced by the traditional preparation method, which involves marinating and cooking the bird in Armagnac, imparting a rich, aromatic quality to the meat.

How is the Ortolan traditionally prepared?

Traditionally, Ortolans were caught using nets during their migratory season. They were then kept in dark boxes or blinded to disrupt their circadian rhythm, causing them to overeat. Once fattened, they were drowned in Armagnac, plucked, and roasted for a short period. This method is now illegal due to ethical and conservation concerns.

What are the conservation efforts for Ortolan?

Conservation efforts for the Ortolan include legal protection from hunting and habitat conservation. The European Union's Birds Directive prohibits the deliberate killing or capture of wild birds, including the Ortolan. Additionally, organizations like BirdLife International work on habitat management and monitoring to ensure the species' survival.

Mary McMahon
Mary McMahon

Ever since she began contributing to the site several years ago, Mary has embraced the exciting challenge of being a AllThingsNature researcher and writer. Mary has a liberal arts degree from Goddard College and spends her free time reading, cooking, and exploring the great outdoors.

Learn more...
Mary McMahon
Mary McMahon

Ever since she began contributing to the site several years ago, Mary has embraced the exciting challenge of being a AllThingsNature researcher and writer. Mary has a liberal arts degree from Goddard College and spends her free time reading, cooking, and exploring the great outdoors.

Learn more...

Discussion Comments

zoid

I've heard that, traditionally, the birds are eaten bones and all. I find the idea of eating a songbird not very attractive to begin with, but eating the bones - even less so.

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