What is Amperage?

science engineering

Amperage, also called current, is the amount of electrical energy flowing through an appliance at any given time. This measurement is expressed in units called amperes, often shortened to amps. When electricians speak of the electricity flowing in and out of your home, they may be referring to voltage, amperage or wattage depending on the circumstances. Of the three, amperage is the one you may experience first when you plug in a faulty lamp or flip the wrong switch.

Understanding amperage may require a crash course in electrical engineering, wiseGEEK style. Electricity is to home electrical circuits as water is to home plumbing systems. Electricity is brought in to the home through power lines ultimately connected to a generator. In a standard US home system, this incoming electricity is limited to 110 volts. In other countries, it may be closer to 230 volts. Voltage is roughly the equivalent of how much water can fit in a pipe. Volts don't flow by themselves -- they are drawn from a high point (the line outside the house) to a low point (the toaster) once the circuit is completed by the toaster's switch. Voltage is mostly a measurement of 'potential' energy available, not necessarily how much is actually used.

This is where amperage comes in. The toaster, or any other electrical product, needs a certain amount of electrical energy to perform its job. It draws that amount of electricity from the 'river' of volts in the line. A small electrical appliance like a toaster usually needs less power than a larger appliance such as a refrigerator or power saw. In electrical terms, these appliances work at different amperage rates. A large electric motor may draw 100 amps, while a small heating element may draw only 10 amps. Both tap into the same 110 voltage line, but their amperage needs are noticeably different.

Amperage must be controlled in order to protect the electrical lines from overheating or short-circuiting. This is why electricians use fuses and breakers. A 30 amp fuse, for example, will allow smaller appliances to run on the line it protects, but if an electric clothes dryer pulls 60 amps, a metal filament in the fuse will melt and break the circuit immediately. Breaker switches also control amperage through circuit breaking. Larger electrical devices often have their own circuits with higher capacity fuses or breaker switches to avoid such overloads.

The general rule of thumb for homeowners is the higher the amperage, the more an appliance will cost to run. There is always a trade-off between power and economy when it comes to electrical devices. If economizing on the monthly utility is a priority, then select products with lower amperage. If power and speed are important, then look for products with higher amperage. The utility company bills customers based on total wattage used, which is calculated by multiplying amperage by voltage. Wattage is the basic measuring unit of electrical power, so customers are usually charged by the watt or kilowatt. This is why it is important to turn off electrical devices when they are not needed. Extra amperage means a higher amount of billable wattage hours.

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Posted by: anon15670
I have a 15 amp circuit in my bedroom. My current air conditioner has a posting of 12 amps and i want to replace it so I can use more appliances while it is on. Unfortunately, all the air conditioners I see (even those with lower BTUs than what I currently have) has this "15 amperes", drawn amperes: 4.6, 6.8, etc) What does that mean? All I really want is to find a lower ampere requirement of an A/C. What is the difference between amperes and drawn amperes?
Posted by: weskm
I have a power supply that has 5000mA 60 Watt max.

Is 5000mA the same as 5 Amps?

Posted by: anon8285
rms: "I have an LCD monitor that requires 4amps. what happens if the power supply that I use is only 2.5amps?"

I am not an electrician, but I have enough knowledge to be dangerous.

If it is the power supply that was provided by the manufacturer, you are probably all right.

But I needed to get a small computer peripheral working for a conference call, and could only find a unit that was rated for fewer amps (but the same voltage) as the peripheral.

The conference call went ok, but the power supply just about melted before I noticed it was too hot to touch.

If you threw that power supply in there, I'd get one that is properly sized - It's likely a fire hazard.

Posted by: rms
I have an LCD monitor that requires 4amps. what happens if the power supply that I use is only 2.5amps?
Posted by: Vince
Suppose I have a 30 amp breaker with 10-3 wire run. At a junction box it splits to a electric dryer with 10-3 wire. Would it be appropriate to run a 12-2 wire from the 10-3 wire at the junction box to a fuse box with a 20 amp fuse to run a washing machine? I'm trying to understand the relationship of the current flowing from the 30 amp breaker through the 10gauge wire and the 12 gauge wire. I'm thinking the only current flowing will be that which is pulled by the device. If so the 12 gauge wire is adequate since the device, the washing machine, will only pull up to 20 amps. Therefore the 12 gauge wire would handle the current flowing to the washing machine.
Posted by: onthego4
What will happen if you plug a machine that requires 32.0 amps to an outlet that only produces 31.2 amps?

When you buy a product and it says 15 amps, does that mean that it requires that much amps to operate it or needs to be plugged to outlet with that much amperage but uses less than the outlet put out?

Posted by: anon2805
In the first circuits course of my electrical engineering program my instructor said

"If you are going to be a professional you must never use the terms amperage and wattage, the correct terms are current and power"


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