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What is a Rip Current?

Shannon Kietzman
Shannon Kietzman

A rip current is a phenomenon that occurs along shorelines with breaking waves. As the wave moves from deep water to shallow water it may break with a great deal of force in some places, while it is weak in other areas. This difference in strength of the wave's break can cause circulation cells to develop which form the rip current: a narrow and fast-moving strip of water that moves away from the shore. A variety of factors may affect the formation of the current including sandbars, piers, jetties, and the shape of the ocean floor.

Rip currents are often erroneously referred to as rip tides. Tides have to do with the ocean's water levels which predictably and slowly change primarily due to the moon's gravitational pull. Rip currents, on the other hand, exist irrespective of tides, forming suddenly and unexpectedly as a result of certain conditions of breaking waves. Put simply, tides have to do with the water level, and currents are faster streams of water moving in a larger body of water.

A rip current is also different than an undertow which is a current of water pulling down to the ocean floor. An undertow therefore will pull a swimmer down, while a rip current will typically pull a swimmer out into the ocean.

The Moon's gravitational influence on the oceans of the Earth helps create the tides.
The Moon's gravitational influence on the oceans of the Earth helps create the tides.

This condition can be serious when it forms at a public beach, particularly for those who cannot swim well or at all. This is because current speeds are usually around one to two feet per second (about .3 to .6 meters per second). In some cases, a rip current may travel at speeds faster than eight feet per second (about 2.4 meters per second) – faster than an Olympic swimmer can swim. Therefore even the best of swimmers can be in danger if they do not know how to react if they find themselves in this current. Due to its speed and force, these currents result in more than 100 drowning deaths every year in the United States and have some relation to approximately 80% of water rescues.

The presence of a jetty can affect the development of a rip current.
The presence of a jetty can affect the development of a rip current.

To avoid drowning in a rip current, it is important to recognize sea conditions. Areas in the water that are a different color than surrounding water can be a sign of a rip current. Choppy, churning water is another sign, as is a line of seaweed, foam, or other debris moving forward in the water.

Conversely, unusually calm looking waters can also be a sign. A break in the pattern of the waves moving toward the shore may also mean a rip current is brewing beneath the water’s surface. It should be noted, however, that the current may be present and not exhibit any of these signs.

Rip currents occur along shorelines with breaking waves.
Rip currents occur along shorelines with breaking waves.

To remain safe, swimmers should never swim alone and should exercise extreme caution when swimming at beaches without lifeguards on duty. Swimmers caught in a rip current should remain calm and swim in a direction that follows the shoreline, swimming to shore only once they are out of the current. If swimming along the shore is not possible, one should float or tread the water until free of the current. Attempting to swim toward shore while caught in the current will only result in exhaustion.

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is a rip current?

The shape of the ocean floor is one factor in creating rip currents.
The shape of the ocean floor is one factor in creating rip currents.

A rip current is a strong, localized, and rather narrow current of water that moves directly away from the shore, cutting through the lines of breaking waves. It typically forms at low spots or breaks in sandbars, and also near structures such as jetties and piers. Rip currents can move at speeds of up to 8 feet per second, which is faster than an Olympic swimmer can sprint.

How can I identify a rip current?

Rip currents can be identified by their distinct characteristics: a channel of churning, choppy water, a difference in water color, a line of foam, seaweed, or debris moving steadily seaward, and a break in the incoming wave pattern. Noticing these signs can be crucial for beach safety.

What should I do if I'm caught in a rip current?

If you're caught in a rip current, it's vital to remain calm and conserve energy. Don't fight the current by trying to swim directly back to shore. Instead, swim parallel to the shoreline until you're out of the current's grip. Once free, swim at an angle away from the current towards the shore.

Are rip currents and undertows the same thing?

No, rip currents and undertows are not the same. While rip currents move water and anything caught in them away from the shore at the surface, undertows are subsurface currents that pull water back out to sea after a wave has broken on the shore. Undertows typically do not pose the same level of danger to swimmers as rip currents do.

Can rip currents occur on any beach with breaking waves?

Yes, rip currents can occur on any beach that has breaking waves. They are more prevalent and stronger near the low spots in sandbars, near structures such as groins, jetties, and piers, and at beaches that have a more pronounced slope. However, they can occur at any beach with breaking waves, including those on lakes.

How can I help someone else who is caught in a rip current?

If you see someone caught in a rip current, do not enter the water to try to save them, as you could become a victim yourself. Instead, alert lifeguards if present, call 911, and if possible, throw the person a flotation device. Yell instructions to swim parallel to the shore to escape the current.

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    • The Moon's gravitational influence on the oceans of the Earth helps create the tides.
      By: Zhanna Ocheret
      The Moon's gravitational influence on the oceans of the Earth helps create the tides.
    • The presence of a jetty can affect the development of a rip current.
      By: keller
      The presence of a jetty can affect the development of a rip current.
    • Rip currents occur along shorelines with breaking waves.
      By: Tanouchka
      Rip currents occur along shorelines with breaking waves.
    • The shape of the ocean floor is one factor in creating rip currents.
      By: masa
      The shape of the ocean floor is one factor in creating rip currents.